Thursday, February 25, 2010

Week in Review - Part 1 - First Weekend


It's already been 1 week in Grenada. The days have been so packed, that it feels like much longer in a sense, but since we are all still on the high of our Peace Corps experience, it doesn't matter.

Transition

We departed from St. Lucia two Saturdays ago, officially leaving behind our other EC friends who were going to Dominica (pronounced dah-mih-NEEK-uh) and those staying in St. Lucia. Unless we visit them, we won't be reunited for a year until our mid-service training. While in the St. Lucian airport (which was next to a cemetary - eeek), I was approached by a philosophical and gentlemanly police officer who asked if I would "prefer that [he] take [my] camera" after I took a picture of my group. Confused, it took me a while to realize that I did not see the smallest sign ever created indicating that pictures were not allowed.

EC 81

After a very short layover in Barbados, we arrived in St. George's, Grenada, the capital. Miraculously, everyone got all of their luggage and we were greeted by Dr. Desmond LaTouche, our in-country boss (known as our APCD), and Marcia Baptiste, who takes care of everything. Once we walked out of the airport, EC79, the five women currently volunteering on the island, greeted us with a banner and necklaces made from nutmeg, cloves, river beads, bay leaves, and saffron (tumeric). It would be the last time I wouldd need to haul all of my luggage at once!!

The new Grenadian crew

After a picture, an air-conditioned bus ride, and a tour, we arrived at the Peace Corps office in St. George's, the capital. We were fed and spoken to about logistics and things to know for the upcoming week. My host mom, Judy, and her 6-year-old daughter came first to pick me up. They were so welcoming and sweet, I knew I was in good hands. My host mother is a special education teacher as well with roughly 20 years experience, which is a bit intimidating considering I have about 20% of that experience and yet am expected to initiate/develop programs.

Out of our group, I live the furthest from the capital. After our long ride, I met my host grandmother, who is also awesome. She can sew elaborate dresses, shirts, etc. without a pattern or even a picture. She also taught me how to gut a fish that first night - not wasting any time. Most recently, I learned how to cut cinnamon (aka "spice") from the cinnamon tree. Also, after asking if I would like to try some ginger beer (which is more like lemonade, but with ginger instead of lemons), she donned a large cutlass (machete), went outside, and harvested ginger root from the backyard. Thankfully, she worships salt so I have someone with whom to share my obsession. I love this woman.

My room - how cute! But in need of a bigger mosquito net

Integrating

The morning view from my window

The next day, I went to church with my family. Unlike the US, religion (specifically Christianity) is intimately tied to all institutions and the personal lives of the people of Grenada. There is also a small Rastafarian population on this island. I haven't been to church in longer than I care to admit lest the Catholic side of my family ever reads this. Thankfully, my host mom had the hymns and readings out for me when I needed them so I didn't look like a complete doofus. Back at home, I met Deon-ja's father and learned how to make "bakes" which look like fried biscuits and can be filled with fish or anything for that matter. My host sister then took me on a walk to 2 stores so I could meet some people and find my way around the area. On our way back, we heard a drum corps coming up the hill and saw a (random for me) brownie/girl scout parade.


We stayed out making "cakes" with sand and trying to play frisbee while the sea breeze threw it up 20+ feet in the air, far taller than me or my host sister. I, being quasi-brown and usually never using sunscreen, forgot to put some on and turned a hilarious shade of pink around my nose and cheeks. The sun here does not play. Especially at high noon.



Local high school - with a view of course

My host sister posing with the donkey who lives in the field of the local high school

After lunch and a nap, we went to a birthday party for some of Deon-ja's friends. There were tons of kids and the adults spent their time managing their assembly line of snacks and drinks. One small girl stared at me for a while before eventually walking up to me wide-eyed and gently stroked my face and lips, presumably to see if 1) I was real, 2) that I did have skin. My host mom, Judy, got a kick out of that.



I got to speak with Judy about the state of special education in Grenada and it sounded strikingly similar to that in NYC. At the risk of making premature comparisons, it sound as if NY has more access to resources, but is still confronted with similar challenges such as the amount of trained SPED teachers, space for SPED classes, lack of vocational training for students with disabilities, etc. I'll learn more once I start my work assignments.

Being the integration machine that we are, my host family and I went to a beach called Bathway in the north of the island, where there was a reggae band and limin'. The water there is rough, as evidenced by the broken coral reef that floats in the calmer "pool" part of the ocean. Once you swim beyond the pool, you may be as good as gone according to many people here.

All in all, a productive and fun weekend!

Notes

1. There are no sidewalks in a vast majority of Grenada.
2. Chickens, donkeys, dogs, cats, goats, and sheep all roam the streets and fields where I live.
3. Grenadians don't cut birthday cake at the party but give it out to the b-day party guests during the week.
4. I am considered white here, not an ethnically-ambiguous brown person.



Thursday, February 18, 2010

Quick Update (For Visual Learners)

le fleur


Baby goats on the way to the beach


Castries, the St. Lucian capital


Building next to the Derek Walcott Square, named after a St. Lucian Nobel Prize Laureate for Literature


Le bibliotheque de Castries


Valentine's Day Scribblings

Modern Day Peace Corps: Laptops and Internet


But still roughing it...yes, those are presumably from mosquitoes!

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

St. Lucia and Training

We made it! After a 3.5 hour flight from Miami and a 1 hour (air-conditioned!!) bus ride, we have made it to our initial training facility.

The view from our rooms

Day 1 of Pre-Service Training

I still can't believe it's only been 1 day since arriving at St. Lucia, so much has happened since then and there is a lot to take in. Today was our first day of pre-service training (PTS). We discussed hopes and anxieties again, failed miserably at trying to place the islands of the Eastern Caribbean (EC) in order geographically, played a cross-cultural card game (with a twist), and discussed the expectations and general program components. The Associate Peace Corps Director (APCD) for Grenada used to be the Minister of Education and has a deep interest in developing Special Ed programs so Grenada is currently the only country that the PC has a specific Special Ed program. Lucky us! During our in-country training, we will learn technical skills as related to our field, universal technical skills (like HIV/AIDS prevention), health precautions, safety and security tips, cross-cultural skills, and language skills. Unfortunately, Grenada does not have a language requirement, meaning that we will only learn a limited amount of French Patois as opposed to volunteers in St. Lucia and Dominica. I have heard, however, that I can take language classes offered on the island, like Spanish, so a few of us trainees are going to look into that.

After the end of training today, many of us headed to the beach for the first time. Incredible. We met a funny and friendly man who worked at a small resort on the beach and extended an invitation to a bon fire on Friday complete with a BBQ. We left not quite sure if he was serious or not.


The Caribbean


We have some reading homework about policies and what to expect during our in-country training. I must say that this has been a fantastic transition, from staging in Miami to a retreat for a week in St. Lucia, before meeting our host families in Grenada for the remaining 7 weeks.

Vegetarianism

Good news: a RPCV (returned Peace Corps volunteer) who served in Grenada told the veggies in the group that people eat a largely vegetarian diet due to the abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables. There is also a Rastafarian presence on the island, so vegetarianism is not a foreign concept. I have been able to be vegan since arriving on the island, eating fresh fruit and salad, soups and cooked rice and vegetables. We were, needless to say, beyond thrilled.


One dinner: rice and beans, cabbage/carrots/onions, and sweet plantains

Arrival

After deplaning and soaking in the sun and heat, we met some PC staff who took our picture. After a smooth transition through customs, we picked up our bags. We walked a short distance to a mini-bus that had folding seats in the aisles. The bus was also air-conditioned, much to our delight. A group of current St. Lucian Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs) met us there with a homemade welcome sign, water, and granola bars. We were told that it takes a lot of time and effort to get to that part of the island on a Sunday, so thanks!



Current St. Lucian volunteers with their welcome sign


90+ pounds of luggage


The sinuous road along with the mountainous terrain made my motion sickness kick in. Fortunately for me (and the people sitting in front of me), we made it to the retreat center right when I felt I was reaching my limit. I stay in a room in a seminary on top of a steep hill. The view makes it worth the hike. We spotted some lizard, geckos, and toads, but no flying cockroaches :)


Our St. Lucian prince in front of the rooms. He has a gecko friend inside.

Notes

1. The EC $1 is a coin, like the Euro.
2. You need to turn a light switch DOWN to turn a light on.
3. The Eastern Caribbean outlets are the same as Great Britain, NOT the "Caribbean" ones.
4. People drive on the opposite side of the road.
5. Roosters don't only crow in the morning, or just once a day for that matter.



Flowers left on our bed post

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Staging



So, after weeks of preparation, I have arrived at the Peace Corps Staging event, which is basically an orientation where we submit paperwork, take care of student loan deferments, learn about more PC expectations for us, and reflect on our motivation, aspirations, and anxieties concerning our decision to join the PC. There are only 24 other volunteers at the staging event, which makes it easy to get to know people and create a sense of community. All of us are working in Special Education or Youth and Community Development. We also learned of our newly promoted status as PC trainees, meaning we are no longer mere invitees. Our cohort is called EC81, meaning we are the 81st group to be assigned to the Eastern Caribbean, which is composed of St. Lucia, Dominica, Grenada, St. Kitts and Nevis, and St. Vincent. It's 55 degrees here in Miami, still balmy considering where I came from.


Union Square, NYC 2/10/10

I miss many things already, like the 67th St. library, extensive public transportation, small cafes, Central Park, etc. However, I'm excited about finally going to St. Lucia and meeting the EC PC staff and volunteers :) I'll update as soon as I can. Until then, take care.


Last Supper in the US with some EC81 volunteers


Waiting for check-in for our flight to St. Lucia at 6:00am with a half ton of luggage...priceless